The embarrassment of different prices for the same dress
On a domestic shopping platform, you can find that the price of these products is basically "cabbage price", and the sales volume is small.
Change the "vest", the situation is very different.
On the official website of Dior, with the label of "iconic Dior profile" or "iconic Dior pattern", the "Dior version of horse face skirt" can be sold at a high price of tens of thousands of yuan, and it is almost sold out.
Among the domestic independent clothing brands, there are few brands that can realize such an exaggerated premium. The traditional clothing represented by horse face skirt lacks market competitiveness.
"China's economy has become the second largest economy in the world, but we still lack big brands that are well-known in the international fashion industry. Through the horse face skirt incident, we should reflect that we still have a long way to go in terms of deeply excavating Chinese traditional clothing and grafting it on modern clothing design." Wu Mengxiong, an analyst at ruiyide consulting company, believes that Chinese fashion designers need to further enhance their cultural confidence when creating clothing.
"When foreign designers pass on their own aesthetic elements, they seem to be very natural; when they 'learn' from other countries' cultural elements, they also seem to be familiar with them. In contrast, our own designers seem to have some 'differences' when mining traditional excellent cultural elements, which makes it difficult for some traditional clothing cultural elements and even Chinese cultural elements to closely integrate with clothing design." Wu Mengxiong said.
Chen Shiyu, deputy director of the Han and Tang clothing research center of Beijing Institute of clothing, has been engaged in the research and restoration of ancient clothing for a long time. In an interview with China Textile News, he said that China's fashion circle had paid attention to the horse face skirt at least more than ten years ago, but it lacked achievements in digestion, reference and innovation. Chinese designers may think it is old-fashioned. The ancient version is not compatible with the current life, and it is difficult to find selling points in the market.
Some clothing designers do not really dig into the structural characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing. When they carry out the so-called Chinese style design, they simply understand it as the stacking of traditional cultural elements, which is obviously different from the expectation of the market. Chen Shiyu said for example: "the horse face skirt designed by Chinese designers more than ten years ago may not even have a clear understanding of the basic structure, but only made a large pleat in the middle, but did not know that the pleats in the middle should actually overlap."
Now, after Dior's skirt comes into the market, the market reaction is fierce, which not only shows the great charm and market value of Chinese traditional clothing, but also highlights the many shortcomings in the protection, development and innovative development of Chinese traditional clothing culture. It is still a long way to go to revitalize traditional clothing in the market economy.
Being a brand does not mean making fast money
According to a report released by Deloitte, almost all the top fashion brands in the world are from Europe and America. LVMH is the world's largest fashion group. Its well-known brands include LV, Hermes and Dior. In 2021, the global revenue was nearly 350 billion yuan, belonging to the world's top 500.
In contrast, Anta Group, the largest garment enterprise in China, has a revenue of nearly 50 billion yuan in 2021.
Brand cultivation requires long-term precipitation, and more importantly, the persistence and creation of designers.
"The building of Chinese clothing brands requires clothing designers to seriously study and deeply understand Chinese culture, especially the essence of Chinese traditional clothing culture." For example, Chen Shiyu said that the tailoring of traditional Chinese clothing is very different from that of Western clothing. Some parts will be large-scale, and some may deliberately not be pinched. Chinese designers should first learn and understand their own culture, better understand the evolution of traditional clothing culture, and more deeply feel the aesthetic logic.
"Haste makes waste." Zhou Ting, an expert on luxury goods and President of the VIP Research Institute, believes that if China wants to create a local traditional clothing brand, it must adhere to, stick to, or even suffer. "Some clothing enterprises use the mentality of doing business to make brands, and even equate making brands with making fast money. On the other hand, the development of some international brands requires a long time. This accumulation of time is also what we lack. In addition, our business started relatively late, and the traditional clothing education in Colleges and universities did not keep up with it. Without professionals, it is difficult to have professional brands. Chinese brands need to learn to be more independent Tell a good story of Chinese culture. " Grace Chen, an advanced custom brand, has developed a golden ratio that conforms to the body shape of Chinese people, and applied it to its own high-order clothing, which has won the favor of the market. Chen yehuai, its founder, stressed that the Chinese clothing industry has not invested enough in traditional clothing culture mining, brand connotation, technology research and development, etc. The broad and profound Chinese culture is the foundation for the survival of traditional clothing and is also an important cultural treasure house for the R & D and design of modern clothing industry. Chinese brands should adhere to the cultural connotation of the same origin, and also master the skills of cultural expression in clothing design, so as to find the fulcrum to move the world fashion.
Dig deep into the gene of traditional culture
In fact, in addition to Dior, which has been pushed to the hot search, many international famous brands are "learning" from Chinese traditional culture. For example, the classic logo cross of a luxury brand is basically the same as that of the Tang Dynasty in terms of layout and color.
"Plagiarism! Don't be infatuated with international brands any more. It's time to wake up! In the future, Diors will no longer condescend to the so-called western aesthetics and culture!" A "after 00" netizen left a message on Weibo.
With the improvement of China's comprehensive national strength, more and more consumers have more international vision and stronger cultural confidence, which is the fertile soil for the growth of Chinese traditional clothing brands.
"Based on the world with Guochao brand, this is an important direction for the development of Chinese clothing branding." Chu Yan, the founder and artistic director of the new Chinese clothing brand Chu he Tingxiang, has been committed to the inheritance of Chinese traditional clothing for many years, and has devoted herself to the research and design of traditional clothing culture, especially Han and Tang clothing culture, Dunhuang clothing culture, and new Chinese aesthetics. She said that the graceful and gorgeous Tang Dynasty, the simple and elegant Song Dynasty, the gentle and restrained Ming Dynasty, and the beauty of China are very distinct in different historical periods. Whether it's Tang costumes, Han costumes, Guochao or new Chinese style, they all have their own advantages.
It is understood that Chu he Tingxiang brand has successively carried out in-depth cooperation with Dunhuang Research Institute and the National Palace Museum to carry out research on the restoration of Chinese traditional clothing and innovative design. Since last year, Chu Yan has gone deep into the clothing Museum of the National Palace Museum, trying to find traditional elements and Chinese aesthetics from the cultural relics of the National Palace Museum, and design national fashion clothing that is more suitable for the daily needs of Chinese people.
"In recent years, the textile and garment industry has held a large number of design competitions, fashion weeks and other activities to support the development of clothing brands and cultivate more innovative designers." Li Yanyan, President of Beijing time-honored enterprises and Dade and longqingxiang Clothing Co., Ltd., which has long been committed to the research and development of Chinese traditional clothing, suggested that the government should give corresponding support to domestic enterprises that are committed to the development of fashion or cultural fields with oriental aesthetics and Chinese charm. At the same time, it is necessary to guide the mass media, film and television works, and e-commerce platforms to gradually influence the popular concepts of Chinese people in a broader field.
Not long ago, the Ministry of industry and information technology and other five departments jointly issued the "three products" action plan (2022-2025) for digitally assisting the consumer goods industry, which clearly proposed the innovative development of Guochao brand. Excavate traditional cultural genes and intangible cultural heritages such as Chinese culture, Chinese memory and Chinese time-honored brands, strengthen the research on the consumption orientation of new consumer groups, innovate consumption scenarios, and promote the construction of Guochao brand.
The reporter learned that in recent years, in the competition with international famous brands, the recognition of Guochao brand has risen rapidly. Ipsos data shows that 71% of Chinese consumers think that Chinese brands are very important, and 69% of Chinese consumers think that the development of Chinese brands can be expected in the future. With the rise of national fashion and the improvement of R & D strength of local clothing brands, it is believed that in the future, traditional clothing culture and modern clothing design will be more closely integrated, and the embarrassment of "different prices for the same dress" will be gradually resolved.
source:https://www.tnc.com.cn/info/c-001001-d-3723976.html